Marbella Linen Highlands Wrap Dress


Dresses, Handmade Wardrobe / Monday, October 21st, 2019

Summer makes me want to wear all the linen things! Aaaaand all the dresses!

PATTERN

This Highlands Wrap dress by Allie Olson is incredibly elegant! I love the facings! I love the mitered corners! The details that are so thoughtfully designed, all come together to make this pattern so special.

I often find facings really tedious –feeling like, at the time of sewing they could never possibly lay flat– but they look so beautiful when they are finished! I have realized that facings elevate a garment beyond other finishes, such as bias finishes. And I love that the mitered corners of the skirt echo the armscye and neckline facings in such a thoughtful way.

FABRIC

This fabric makes me swoon! I got 3 yards of this navy Marbella linen rayon blend from Stone Mountain & Daughter, but used a bit less. The color is to die for, and I really haven’t captured its true beauty with these photos. It is really soft and flowy with a slight stretch, and it was very easy to sew with.

SIZING

I cut a size 6. The fabric has a slight stretch so I thought I could get away with a smaller size. If I had used linen or other non-stretch fabric, I might opt for a size 8. I usually muslin new patterns, but I took a chance on this with no muslin in a straight size 6, not grading out at the hips because the finished garment measurements indicated enough ease there.

I like the fit of the bust in this size but the overall fit does feel a tad boxy on me. Next time, I might grade out 1 size at the hips.

ADJUSTMENTS

The pattern has a full length & midi option. For my summer dress, I wanted it to fall at the knee, so I shortened the midi length skirt piece by 7.5 inches and shifted the mitered corners up.

I did not do an FBA, but I did lower the bust dart by 3/4 inch, which helped with the fit and shape. I think it fits pretty well because of the small amount of stretch in the linen. However, next time I would add length to the top by an inch at least. I have never needed to lengthened the torso in a pattern, but the waist gathers, and the ties, hit me at the bottom of my ribs. It DOES fit, but it would be more comfy if it hit at my natural waist.

This dress got a ton of wear this summer! I can’t wait to make my next Highlands in black viscose linen noil!


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