Autumn Kelly Anorak


Handmade Wardrobe, Outer Wear / Friday, January 29th, 2021

PATTERN

I guess I didn’t really need a new coat, but well… look at it!? This is the Kelly Anorak pattern by Closet Case Patterns in version A with a hood. It’s the perfect transitional season coat! And I needed a challenge ūüôā

I made the lined version but I used the instructions & pattern pieces for the cuffs that came from the unlined version.

FABRIC

I bought 3 yards of this gorgeous Merchant & Mills Dry Oilskin fabric from Oak Fabrics. It is a deep steel/ midnight blue that is so much more beautiful in person! Since it is water resistant, it is perfect for this spring/autumn jacket. It cuts and sews like butter!

The lining fabric is cotton Art Gallery Ojos Flame designed by April Rhodes. I think I bought extra because it’s so cool!

SIZE & ADJUSTMENTS

I chose to make a size 12. I am 5’10” and my measurements are 38-30-42. The pattern is made for someone who is 5’6″ so I added 2 inches to the sleeve length. This was the perfect amount for me. Even though I could have lengthened the jacket itself (and didn’t), I like it as is. It falls halfway down my hips/butt.

My (ALWAYS) adjustment for anything zipped or buttoning up the front, is to mirror the zipper and snaps to the right side. Most people are right handed, so I don’t know why everything STILL opens to the left. It drives me crazy. ūüôā

I usually have to do a broad back adjustment on fitted garments, so I made sure to make a muslin first before using my beloved Merchant & Mills fabric! I actually had to make 2 muslins; I probably should have made a 3rd just to confirm, but after the 2nd I just tweaked everything a bit more for the final jacket.

I have very broad shoulders, so depending on how a pattern is drafted I usually will feel tightness across the back and underarms. As this is very undesirable in a jacket, especially if wearing any layers underneath, the first adjustment I made in the muslin was this broad back adjustment (photo below, far left).

After the 1st muslin, I realized the sleeves were also way too tight. This ended up being the biggest issue in fitting this pattern. I don’t think I have the largest arms out there, but the sizing on this area seems a bit small for this size I chose. The sleeves felt very tight when bending my arms, even with no layers underneath. I widened the upper and lower sleeves (middle photo, below), but had to adjust the armscye and sleeve cap in response.

I just love how this turned out. I wore it a ton last spring and fall- at every opportunity really! I would love to make another Kelly anorak, unlined version B with a collar instead of the hood, in an army green twill!

I worked on this over the course of 2 months in early 2020. A lot of that time I was sourcing cord pulls and locks, trying to find copper colored findings (with no luck). So I just went with black for those few items.

  • TIME INVENTORY:
  • 10 hours on pattern cutting, adjusting, muslining, and re-muslining
  • 15-20 hours on fabric cutting, interfacing, and sewing

NOTIONS

SNAPS: Copper snaps from Gold Star Tools with Heavy duty die press

ZIPPER: I get all my zippers from Wawak because they have an extensive selection of colors and sizes. This one is the #3- 24″ antiques brass separating zipper.

DRAWSTRING: Joann Fabrics

CORD PULL: Cord stops from Amazon

CORD LOCK: Cord Locks from Amazon

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