Olive Denim Lander Pants

Handmade Wardrobe, Pants / Sunday, February 10th, 2019

This was my favorite project of 2018! This olive denim was just asking to become Lander pants!

There are so many design features in the Lander pants (by True Bias) that I never imagined I would like, let alone loooove: the high waist, the exposed button fly, wide leg, no stretch.

There was a bit of fitting adjustments to be made with the pattern, but I love a challenge! Honestly, that might be the original reason I chose this pattern (and it is so popular, I had to see what all the fuss was about!).


I graded from a size 4/6 at the waist, to a 10/12 at the hips, and then tapered the legs after the largest part of the hips. I used the size 10 rise.


  • Slight low seat/ full seat adjustment (seen in image below)
  • Flat pubis adjustment (seen in image below)
  • Added 4 inches to the length to do a wide 2″ hem (I am 5’10” for reference)
  • Drafted a curved waistband – fully interfaced

The other adjustment I made to the pattern was to the order of operations. The pattern calls for you to sew together the right and left halves of the pattern first, and then sew them together at the crotch seam. This tends to give me weird bunching in the crotch. I DO do this method for shorts so that the butt seam is smoother, but I do not like it for pants. I sew both of the front pieces together, and sew both the back pieces together, and then attach the front to the back. That’s just my preference!


This gorgeous olive Cone Mills 9oz denim is from Imagine Gnats.  The carnivorous plant fabric that I used for the waistband lining is from IndieSew, in collaboration with Spoonflower (where you can still buy it), and designed by Dan Lehman.

I fell in love with this lining when IndieSew announced it. I did my doctoral research in the longleaf pine in North Carolina and saw these pitcher plants every day! Dan did a great job with this design. It’s a great little pop of color & fun for the waistband and it made a beautiful top in the blue colorway (future post).


The muslin was made with rigid denim from JoAnn fabric. I shaved off a bit of the pattern after making my muslin because it was a bit baggy. But, I think it has a bit more give than the cone mills denim, so I should have gone with my original pattern, because the muslin fit me a little better. *Waaa waaa*

I do wear these all the time and would love to make a pair in corduroy and also a lightweight twill. That burgundy pair for the pattern cover image is calling to me!

2 Replies to “Olive Denim Lander Pants”

  1. How did you finish the inside of the seams? I have a serger and mostly sew knits. This is my first serious woven project.

    1. I did serge the seams on this pair! Make sure to change your serger needles to heavier ones for wovens. You can also use flat felled seams- I’ve done that on other jeans, but serging is quicker! I think closet case patterns has a good tutorial on their blog for flat felling seams.
      Good luck! You got this!

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